Long travel freeride hardtail - run 4, 5 or 6in fork. Ride all day. Ride anything.

• Fits any fork - from four to six inches.
• Fits any disc - up to 8in
• Fits you - in sizes from 14in to 20in

It’s been a funny one this. It very nearly existed about five years ago when I was designing the Planet X Compo - which was a sort of “cult hit” - ie: some people loved it, but sales didn’t really set the world alight… I wanted to make it in steel, as it was around the same time on-one started, but lots of people I spoke to worried about weight, and flexyness (in a bad way), so we went with Easton RAD, and it was great - but really expensive, £500 for a frame, and it, well, never really flew. Climbed great though.

So, the Inbred sort of took over our lives here, firstly in an 853 singlespeed incarnation, then in our own DN6 chromoly with gears… Firstly for rigid forks, then 63-80mm then 80-100mm, and things kept getting longer and longer… 100mm became the norm, and then you could get 150mm forks with a singlecrown. I’m still not convinced you need it, but bearing in mind that the whole sport is fundamentally stupid - grown men riding around muddy tracks and hurting themselves - what’s the point in trying to say that a fork 1in longer than another one is sillier. It’s just different.

They’re all bikes. It’s all good.

And so we have the 456. Created sort of from a desire to have something to be a hooligan on, still wanting it to be rideable uphill - that was really important for me. So when I cleaned the climb up Long Causeway from the gate to the top, feet up, I knew we’d got something with this one.

Geometry is funny. We started backwards with this one. I knew from our Compo frame that front end handling had much more to do with weight distribution than the head angle. And that you could make a bike do fun things without becoming a handful. So we did what you’re not meant to do and designed it from what we’d told people not to do - put a long fork on a standard inbred - and then moved the seat angle so that you were sat in the right place to keep the front wheel on the ground
on the steep stuff. I like that too. You can ride this thing sat square in the saddle up lots of stuff you have to shufty forwards on, on other bikes. The shot of me and tobes, testing with the trailerbike might look funny (and it is), but when I could stomp on the pedals, sat down, up the steep bit above the fishing lake on the hill without the front wheel lifting, I knew we had something nice.

The top tube is the same size (and wall thickness, and material spec) as the downtube. A 35mm tube, 0.9mm at the ends and 0.6mm in the middle. Compared to the 28.6mm top tube on the standard inbred it’s 50g heavier, but about 40% stiffer and 60% stronger in frontal impact. Which is what you want when you’re ploughing through things. That means the whole front end is just a whole heap more solid, and the fact that the two tubes are identically sized means they take the loads a lot more equally,

strengthening things further.

Disc clearance is huge. Tyre clearance is bigger. Rear dropouts are geared only - this is our first non singlespeed mountainbike frame (and it feels a bit funny to be honest, but I don’t want a 6in fork on my singlespeed…)

You’ll need a seatclamp - the seat tube is 29.8mm outside diameter at the top, but clamps labelled 30mm will be fine too. The seat tube butts down to 28.6mm outside at the bottom, for your front mech, and inside the frame takes a 27.2mm seatpost. BB is 68mm shell. Front mech is top pull. Brakes are international standard. Headset is inch and an eighth. All the bits off a standard inbred will fit.

Geometry

Angles alter by about 1deg per inch of fork travel. So with a 4in fork, things go to 70.5deg head, and 74 seat, and with a 6in fork, back the other way to 68.5deg head and 72deg seat. The point of all this though is that at full compression, all forks are the same length, and if our geometry means it doesn’t get stupid and squirrely when you’re all bottomed out (the last thing you want really). Our 16.75in rear stays keep mean there’s a touch less weight on the rear wheel on steep climbs, which translates to more weight on the front wheel. Longer chainstays help you keep a better line on climbs. And our huge tyre clearance lets you run bigger tyres if you’re worried about traction!

Frame size (Centre-top)	14”	16”	18”	20”
Effective top-tube length	21.5”	23.0”	23.5”	23.9”
Head Angle with 5in fork	69.5deg	69.5deg	69.5deg	69.5deg
Seat Angle	73deg	73deg	73deg	73deg
BB Height	12.5”	12.5”	12.5”	12.5”
Standover	26”	28.2”	29.4”	30.5”
Chainstay Length	16.75″	16.75″	16.75″	16.75″

What’s it made from?

456 frames are hand TIG welded out of “DN6 Chromoly” - our name (it’s a long story) for double butted 4130 chromoly tubing.

Owners bikes

Take a look! “FlarnFilth/aka Ken”, Fatelvis, Andy Warner, Goognoog

Size advice

Height	Inside leg*	Suggested frame size	Stem length
Small	Tiny	14”	60-80mm
5′6”-5′10”	28”-31”	16”	60-80mm
5′9”-6′1”	30”-34”	18”	60-80mm
6′ - 6′4”	33”-37”	20”	80-105mm

What are they like?

Lots of people love them. And here’s what the journalists said.

Bosses and bits

Frames come with:-

• New disc only rear stays - NO CANTI MOUNTS.
• 1 set of downtube water bottle mounts.
• Rear dropouts with rackmounts and matching ones in the rear wishbone (it’s child-seat friendly).

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Buy On-One

• 456 Complete Bikes
• 456 Frame Only